Bonan Li, Fashion Designer Passionate about Expanding the Creative Possibilities of Sustainability – China Underground

Bonan Li envisions clothes as a place for introspection that abstracts people’s bodies and dissolves gender norms

Bonan Li is an independent fashion designer, who pursued education at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology and furthered fashion studies at Parsons The New School. She has a variety of experiences in the fashion business with well-known firms and is committed to producing cross-cultural fashion that explore issues of self-identity and cultural study. She was chosen as a finalist in the Transmission Project, the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum Exhibition, and worldwide award programs in recognition of her efforts in the fields. Bonan Li sees clothes as a place of reflection that abstracts people’s bodies, dissolves gender norms, and dismantles societal power structures. She also thinks that clothing has the ability to express a person’s inner self and create stronger bonds with their environment. She has a strong interest in transdisciplinary design, organic shapes inspired by nature, and multifunctional materiality. With organic materials that evoke the passage of time and the blurred boundaries between self and environment, Bonan Li is fascinated by the idea of translating the sense of fluidity and introspection into wearable art.

Her goal is to create a sensory experience that mirrors immersive, reflective, and deeply connected to the rhythms of life. She selects materials based on their usefulness, capacity for transformation, and effect on the environment. She hopes that by having this approach, the fashion industry would see sustainability as a chance for creativity and innovation rather than a constraint. She makes sure that every piece not only fits her aesthetic vision but also helps to promote mindful consumption and reduce waste by doing this. Her wearable artwork also  provides a tactile and personal means of experiencing connectivity by bridging the gap between the human body and the greater rhythms of nature. Bonan Li creates to promote harmony between the inner self and the outside world and to remind people of their shared link with the environment. Her goal is to promote a shift in fashion toward environmentally friendly styles that improve the relationship between the wearer, the designer, and the environment.

Bonan Li’s official site and official Instagram

This interview was first published in issue no. 17 of the free digital magazine Planet China.

What inspired you to become a designer and explore clothing as a “contemplative space”? How and when did you get started in fashion design?

I have always been fascinated by the connection between the human body, consciousness, and the natural world. Growing up, I spent a lot of time observing small details in nature—like the decay of lotus leaves—which gave me a deep appreciation for the fragility and resilience of life. These experiences inspired me to see clothing not just as functional attire but as a way to create meaningful spaces for self-expression and reflection. For me, fashion is a form of storytelling where each piece invites the wearer to explore their inner world and their relationship with the environment. By breaking down traditional boundaries of gender and social power, I strive to make clothing a space for freedom and contemplation. My journey in fashion design began during my studies at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, where I first discovered the transformative power of clothing. Later, my time at Parsons School of Design in New York pushed me to think more critically about the role of fashion in cultural and social contexts. These experiences gave me a strong foundation in technical skills and conceptual thinking. I started working with several renowned brands, including Dion Lee and Melitta Baumeister, which further shaped my understanding of design. Over time, I realized that I wanted to create my own space in fashion—one where I could explore cross-cultural narratives, self-identity, and sustainability. This led me to launch my eponymous brand and dive deeper into my creative philosophy.

Each item of clothing has a soul that is in harmony with the wearer’s true uniqueness and the interdependence of all living things

Your design connects human consciousness with nature’s energy, how does this interplay shape your creative process?

Nature is a constant source of inspiration in my creative process because it mirrors the complexities of human consciousness—its fluidity, resilience, and impermanence. I often draw from natural patterns and textures, such as the decay of leaves or the flow of water, to evoke a sense of connection and continuity between the human experience and the environment. This interplay guides my choice of materials, colors, and forms, leading to designs that feel organic and alive. For example, in my Floating Landscape collection, I explored the poetics of voids and cracks, inspired by childhood memories of watching lotus leaves decay. These observations led me to create clothing that celebrates imperfection and transformation, using deconstructed silhouettes and raw textures to echo nature’s energy. By grounding my designs in these natural rhythms, I aim to awaken wearers to their own consciousness and their place within a larger ecosystem, making each piece not just clothing but an extension of the natural world and the self.

Floating Landscape highlights your dialogue between humans and nature. Can you tell us more about this project? Can you describe how materials, colors, or textures reflect these organic and energetic influences?

Floating Landscape is a deeply personal project that explores the ambiguous poetics of nature and the human experience. It’s inspired by my childhood memories of observing the decay of lotus leaves, which taught me to see beauty in impermanence, voids, and the cracks within existence. This collection uses clothing as a medium to create a dialogue between humans and the natural world, highlighting our interconnectedness and shared cycles of transformation. In terms of materials, I chose fabrics with raw and tactile qualities, such as organic cotton, recycled silk, and biodegradable fibers. These materials not only reflect the textures found in nature but also align with my commitment to sustainability. For example, pleated and crinkled surfaces in the collection mimic the organic lines of leaves and ripples in water, capturing a sense of movement and energy. The color palette draws heavily from natural elements—graphite black, earthy taupe, and moonlit silver, evoking the serene contrasts and timeless essence of nature’s landscapes. Textures play a pivotal role in the collection as well: I utilized techniques such as pleating and the creation of textured fabrics to replicate the organic patterns found in the natural world. These methods emphasize depth and authenticity, capturing the imperfect yet harmonious beauty of nature’s forms. This project is not just about clothing; it’s about creating contemplative spaces where the wearer can reconnect with their inner self and the environment. It’s a reminder that we are part of a larger, dynamic ecosystem, and through fashion, we can find ways to coexist harmoniously with nature’s energy.

She established her own sustainable womenswear line in 2024 that uses material texture to explore the enormous energies of nature and women’s identities

Sustainability is an essential component of your approach; how do you choose materials which encourage environmental responsibility? What specific challenges have you faced while implementing eco-friendly production methods, and how have you addressed them?

Sustainability is at the core of my design philosophy, and choosing materials that align with environmental responsibility is a deliberate and thoughtful process. I prioritize materials that are biodegradable, recycled, or produced using minimal resources. For instance, I often work with organic cotton, recycled silk, and plant-based fabrics. I’m also drawn to innovative textiles like regenerated fibers and bio-fabricated materials that push the boundaries of traditional fashion while reducing environmental impact. Additionally, I reuse fabric scraps from production, integrating them into new designs to minimize waste. However, implementing eco-friendly production methods comes with its own challenges. One significant issue is the higher cost and limited availability of sustainable materials, which can pose difficulties for small, independent designers like myself. To address this, I’ve built relationships with suppliers who share my values and are willing to collaborate on sourcing or experimenting with sustainable options. Another challenge is balancing sustainability with maintaining the desired aesthetic and quality of the designs. Sustainable materials sometimes require special handling or don’t offer the same durability as conventional fabrics. To overcome this, I’ve focused on developing innovative techniques, such as fabric texturing, pleating, or layering, to enhance the functionality and longevity of the materials I use. Finally, scaling sustainable production has been a learning curve, especially when working with limited resources. I’ve adopted a made-to-order approach for some collections, which helps reduce overproduction while ensuring each piece is crafted with care and precision. By staying committed to these practices, I aim to create thoughtful designs that inspire both environmental consciousness and a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship behind each garment.

What role do collaborations or partnerships with scientists, environmentalists, or local artisans play in your work?

Collaborations are a cornerstone of my creative process, enabling me to combine innovation, sustainability, and cultural storytelling. Partnering with scientists and environmentalists helps me access cutting-edge sustainable materials, such as bio-engineered fabrics and regenerated fibers, while also shaping how I consider a garment’s full lifecycle—from production to recyclability. These partnerships ensure my designs stay at the forefront of eco-conscious practices. Equally important are collaborations with local artisans, whose traditional craftsmanship adds depth and authenticity to my work. Techniques like hand-dyeing, weaving, and texturing not only bring unique character to each piece but also help preserve cultural heritage and support artisan communities. These partnerships inspire me to blend modern design with time-honored traditions, creating pieces that carry both personal and collective stories. Through these collaborations, I’m able to push the boundaries of sustainable design while fostering meaningful connections between creativity, innovation, and community.

Do you believe consumers’ mindsets will shift significantly regarding sustainable fashion? What responsibility do you think fashion has in educating people about environment, pollution, and climate change awareness?

I believe consumer mindsets are already shifting, though there is still a long way to go. More people are becoming aware of the environmental impact of fast fashion and are beginning to prioritize quality, longevity, and sustainability in their choices. However, true change requires a cultural shift—where consumers not only value eco-conscious designs but also embrace thoughtful consumption, such as buying less but better and understanding the stories behind their garments. Fashion has a tremendous responsibility in this transformation. As an industry that influences trends and behaviors, it must go beyond creating sustainable products to actively educate and inspire consumers. This means being transparent about the environmental impact of production, raising awareness of pollution and climate change, and promoting practices like recycling, upcycling, and reducing waste. Designers and brands have the power to shift narratives, making sustainability aspirational rather than a compromise. By integrating education into marketing and storytelling—such as sharing the origins of materials or the craftsmanship behind pieces—we can help consumers understand the value of their choices. Fashion isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s a platform for driving global change.

You’ve been honored with the Top Ten Fashion Designers Award and the MUSE Design Award. How having these awards influenced your design approach and awareness in incorporating sustainable practices?

Being honored with the Top Ten Fashion Designers Award and the MUSE Design Award has been incredibly meaningful for me. These recognitions not only validated my creative vision but also reinforced the importance of staying committed to my values, especially sustainability. They pushed me to think more critically about how my designs can contribute to a broader conversation around responsible fashion. These awards have elevated my platform, allowing me to reach a wider audience and advocate for sustainable practices more effectively. They also motivated me to innovate further—whether it’s experimenting with low-waste design techniques, incorporating eco-friendly materials, or exploring new ways to minimize environmental impact in production. Ultimately, they’ve deepened my sense of responsibility as a designer to use my work as a tool for positive change, ensuring that sustainability remains a core principle in every collection I create.

The International Women’s Day 2025 theme focuses on “Accelerare l’azione”. What do you believe are the key barriers slowing down progress for gender equality in your field, and what actions do you think are essential to overcome these challenges swiftly?

One of the key barriers to gender equality in fashion is the persistent under-representation of women in leadership and decision-making roles, despite the industry being heavily female-driven. Many women designers and professionals face systemic challenges such as unequal access to funding, limited opportunities to scale their brands, and societal expectations that often undervalue their creative contributions. Another barrier is the perpetuation of traditional gender norms in fashion design and marketing. Many brands still cater to rigid gender binaries, limiting opportunities for innovation and inclusivity in design. To overcome these challenges, the industry needs to take tangible actions, such as prioritizing investment in women-led businesses and fostering mentorship programs that empower emerging female designers. Education and awareness campaigns should also focus on breaking stereotypes and encouraging more women to take up leadership roles in the fashion and creative sectors. Additionally, designers can challenge norms by creating more inclusive and fluid collections that transcend traditional gender constructs, encouraging consumers to rethink identity and self-expression. By accelerating these actions and creating a more supportive, inclusive ecosystem, we can ensure that gender equality becomes a reality, not just a vision, in the fashion world.

Photos and images courtesy of Bonan Li

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Dominique Musorrafiti

CHINA-UNDERGROUND. Ciao! My name is Dominique. I’m Italian and I’m proud to be a mix. My father was an Italian chemical engineer and high school teacher, with Greek and Polish heritage. My mother is Haitian, she was high school language teacher, with Dominican, Spanish, French, Portuguese, African and Native American heritage. Being a mix makes me appreciate to want to understand different cultures and lifestyles. I grew up in Italy, lived few years in Haiti, travel around main European capitals, lived seven years in China, six in Spain and UK. Traveling makes me feel that we can learn something from every situation in every part of the world.